The experience you will remember
Introduction
These adventures on the cliffs are the longest classic climbs accessible rapidly from Montréal. You will find good climbing on impressive monuments from whitch the vues are magnificent. You will feel being in the mountains. Don't forget your camera!
Note : for all the outings in the USA, you will need a driving licence or a passport. Verifications will be made upon registration. Insurances will be planned as needed. All the climbing equipment needed is included.
The "Grimpes d’un jour"
Eagle Slide (7-10h - beginner* – Class 3)
Giant mountain, located in the Adirondacks (New-York state), strikes from a big slide with the shape of an eagle on its south face. Reaching the foot of the slide requires to hike 1.5km, and then follow a stream for 2 km. You will put climbing shoes on in order to climb the slide. The difficulty will not stop you. You will be very happy about having the harness, a rope and a guide to belay you because the exposure is impressive and some steps are a little harder. The slide will get you a couple of meters short from the summit that we will reach on a small trail. The way down will be on a hiking trail. (The elevation gain is about 2000 feet or 600 meters!) For this outing, if the time of return allows it, swimming is available in a nearby lake.
Trap Dike (9-13h - beginner* – Class 4)
The other classic easy long climb of the adirondacks. This 18 km adventure will get you at Avalanche Lake first in the heart of the mountains. Then, reaching the other side of the lake, the climb starts on the Trap Dike. This will get you to the summit of mount Colden. The climb is varied : a first section is steep and will demand easy technique, then a slide will reach the top. The return is done on a nice foot trail. (Again, the elevation gain is about 2000 feet or 600 meters!!) During this outing, it is possible to swim in the lake to cool down if the progression allows it.
Photo1 : Avalanche Lake, the Trap Dike is on the other side of the lake
Poko Moonshine (6-8h - intermediate* – 5.8)
You may have noticed an impressive cliff on the highway leading to New-York city just after the american border. This steep cliff of approximatly 500 feet have nice crack systems well suited to modern trad climbing. The day will start warming up on shorter and easier routes. Then, we will move on to the main dish of the day. Many routes lead to the top. Gamesmanship is a favorite because of it's 5 pitches of interesting climbing on solid rock.
A route on slabs on the south face will suit you better if you do not quite have the level for 5.8. The route is named Catharsis (intermediate – 5.6). It's 5 pitches (450 feet) are located on a less steep cliff. The vue is magnificent.
Weir (5-7h - intermediate* – 5.8)
The Weir cliff is located on mont Larose. This cliff is caracterised by a height unrivaled in the Laurentians. We offer you Adagio (5.8), a route with four pitches that will let you with great memories. The approach is approximately 1 km long and the return is done walking down around the cliff. This day can be combined with an other climb according to the pleasures seeked because the climb represents a smaller day.
Photo1 : vue from the bottom, route for experts or aid climbing, Black and White, 5.11a (3 pitches of corners, cracks and a roof)
Photo2 : Téléglobe Canada as seen from the top of the cliff
Photo3 : vue from the top of la Ligne Jaune (5.8), 3 pitches, corners, traverses, roof and chimney 'A la carte'!
The Grimpes d’un jour... and a half
The next excursions require to get near the climb the night before the climb. This will allow to start the day earlier. That is required to make the climb safer and to get back to the car before dark. Return to Montréal can be planned the day of the climb.
Regular route - Whitehorse Ledge (7-9h - intermediate* – 5.7)
The cliffs in New-Hampshire are varied and have climbing for everybody. The slabs of Whitehorse will be engraved in your memory as you will climb this undulating rock mass almost infinitely! Your calves will be put to the test! This long climb is special since the approach is only 300 meters. A hiking trail will get you back down to the car. Some factory oulets are making the day of many visitors of North-Conway, right by the cliffs. A lake and a river can cool you down.
Photo1 : 3 climbers on a ledge at Whitehorse Ledge
Photo2 : Whitehorse Ledge, The regular route follows the diagonal arch going from left to right
Photo3 : Vue towards the bottom during the climb
Cathedral Ledge (7-9h - intermediate* – 5.6)
The brother cliff of Whitehorse but steeper. If friction climbing is not your thing, this climb will please you. The 5 pitches of Thin Air (5.6) will vary your steps. The approach is approximately 800 meters and the way down is done following the : road! A short hike from the top of the climb will get you to the belvedere. You will probably not be alone there since tourists using the free road enjoy the vue.
For a glorious top out at the belvedere (sometimes, tourists applause), Fun House (5.7) coupled to Upper Refuse (5.5) offers 5 nice pitches with hardly trickier moves.
The other classic climb would be Recompense 5.9, linked to the magnificent Beast Flake 5.9. This can give good feeling to more advanced climbers. This route with the feeling of big walls is not to be missed.
Photo1 : Climber on the second pitch (the traverse) of Thin Air (5.6)
Cannon Cliff (10-12h - intermediate – advanced* – 5.5 à 5.8+)
The biggest rock face of New-England. Yes : this cliff is imposing! The approach of an hour in a rockfall, the climb of 6 to 9 pitches and a return of an other good hour are expected. Three routes are available: Lakeview (5.5), Whitney-Gilman Ridge (5.7) and Moby Grape (5.8+). Feelings of big walls in an alpine setting. The cliff has a reputation for bad weather. Going there will make up your mind!
Photo1 : Wow! What a great crack! It is the first pitch of Moby Grape (5.8+)
Photo2 : Two happy climbers in front of Cannon, on the side of the road
* About technical dificulties :
For all routes, beeing in good shape is required. For beginners climbs only, no experience in climbing is generally required. In those routes, the climbing can be considered as hard hiking. The climbing equipement furnished on demand (harnesses, ropes, helmets, climbing shoes, chalk, etc.) in required for security. None of these outing is to take lightly, if you have any concerns about anything, do not hesitate to contact us!